Croissants & Waves at the Edge of the World - Brittany in a PandaVan

After a first successful trip of more than 9000 km to Portugal and back, I set off on my next solo journey in early September. This time, my 32-year-old Panda takes me to Brittany for a full month. My motivation: to spend my birthday surfing in the sun.

On my way to the north-western part of France, I make a stop in the famous bouldering area of Fontainebleau. I stay for two nights, exploring the iconic rock formations hidden in the forest. Together with climbers I meet on site, I try a few routes - and even attempt some of my own “Panda boulders.”

The nearby town is just as charming, perfect for a slow coffee and something sweet in the sun. After two days, however, the weather turns rainy and I continue my journey west.

After two more days on the road, I finally reach La Torche beach.

“Finistère” - which literally means the end of the world - welcomes me with drizzle, cold winds and a poor surf forecast. Not exactly the start I had imagined. Six degrees at night in an uninsulated tiny van on the campground is manageable - but not for long.

So I decide to take a break from camping and check into a cosy guesthouse near Plozévet. Warm living room, a place to work, occasional surf sessions in between, and shared breakfasts with delicious fresh croissants - it feels like the right decision. A small pause before continuing on the road.

Brittany, located in the far west of France, is known for its rugged coastline, ever-changing weather and strong Atlantic swells. Especially in late summer, conditions can shift quickly - which makes flexibility just as important as a bit of endurance.

One week after arriving in Brittany, everything changes. Suddenly: blue skies, sunshine, light clouds and mild temperatures. The following two weeks pass quickly. Life in the PandaVan feels light again. The waves are small but clean - and better than the forecast originally said.

I find myself on the Crozon peninsula and quickly fall in love with La Palue beach. I end up staying much longer than planned. The parking lot fills with a mix of travellers and local surfers. The atmosphere is easy, familiar - after a few days, faces become familiar too. Between surf sessions: croissants, pain au chocolat, and salty galettes.

Outside of the bigger towns there was not that much open anymore in low season - here are a few places I recommend:

• La Fabrik a Crêpes, Douarnenez
• A nice bar for at night: Le Pavé also in Douarnenez
• Watch out for the last weekly, local food markets with live music and delicious food stands - e.g. in Pont Croix
• Local bakeries in small towns also never disappoint ;)

On my birthday, the forecast finally turns green for the first time in weeks: around one metre of swell, clean, long-period waves. The parking lot is already busy in the morning. I celebrate my birthday with an early surf. Afterwards: café au lait and croissants with two fellow surfers. In the afternoon, I go back in for a second session. A simple day outside at the sea, but exactly how I like it.

After more than a week, I finally leave the Crozon peninsula and head further south, towards Audierne. The wind picks up again, but the weather stays dry. I spend quiet days exploring smaller bays, sometimes alone, sometimes with other surfers.

The PandaVan continues to attract attention wherever I go. One morning, I open my door and stretch my head outside. From a distance in a huge campervan, a woman calls out cheerfully: “Do you want coffee or tea?” I laugh and thank her - she can’t see it and probably wouldn't expect it, but I’m already making a delicious breakfast inside in my tiny kitchen, sitting on my bed.

The last days arrive - and the weather seems to return to how it started: rainy and windy. But today one final dry day is predicted. No waves though, and a lot of wind. Or so it seems. A few hours later, everything changes. The wind drops completely. Clean, consistent waves start rolling in. The only challenge: they break quite steep - at least for me.

I go into the water, and hesitate at the first waves, and get caught by a few. But then another set comes, I take off on the steepest part to catch the wave - and manage to stay on my board, gliding all the way across a beautiful wave. What a feeling. I stay in the water until sunset. Arms heavy, energy low - but completely happy. A perfect final session.

The next morning: rain, wind, cold. But inside my PandaVan, with a hot water bottle, I feel warm and grateful for that last magical surf. I use this rainy day to prepare for the journey back. Packing everything, planning the route, last grocery shopping … The next morning, I set off on my three-day drive back across France and Germany, trading the wild coast of Brittany for a golden October at home in Bavaria.

I love travelling - as much as I love coming home. These opposites have been a part of me for 20 years. London, Barcelona, California - I’ve lived, studied, and worked there, yet I’ve always enjoyed returning to Munich. Ten years ago, I moved 70km south of Munich, to Rosenheim, out of love for the mountains. My fascination with the sea and life abroad remained, and led to many van trips. I often combine travel with my work as a freelancer - even in the PandaVan. Because in a van, I can live both the joy of travelling and the feeling of being at home.

eva-baumgartl.de
@eva.anna_creative